Kenwood TS-2000 delayed transmission fix

Well, I had to do something to sort this out. I can’t cope with a radio that’s not working as intended, it really

TS-2000 with the control board removed.

TS-2000 with the control board removed.

bothers me 🙁 After some digging around, I found a Yahoo-group where this case was discussed (see it here). To sum it up, it suggests that you put control and PTT over to the sub band and the radio will transmit at full power immediately. I tried this, but didn’t work at all – still the same. Seeing that my radio had a pretty old firmware (F095) I decided to try an update. The update procedure is easy enough and was done in no time. After this update, I could do the PTT/control trick – which works (wicked). This workaround creates a new problem though; the log program will save my contacts as worked on the sub receiver, which isn’t very handy. I could of course edit all those logs, but what a pain! At the very least it makes me able to do the important Winlink-tasks over Winmor.

TS-2000 R708 removal

Removed R708 from the control board.

need a proper solution to this, so had a new look at the bulletin from Kenwood. I could easily do the suggested mod, but I miss the flash-IC (IC508). Can’t exactly see why they have to change that one, unless it was for some other preventive measure.. No idea, so let’s try! Opening up the transceiver is trivial, just remember to be gentle with the flat flex cables (there’s plenty of them). I desoldered R708 and put in a 47kOhm resistor between C705 and C701 per the bulletin. I didn’t have any smaller resistor than an 80’s 1/4W device, but it fits ok. I put it all together and fired it up, anxious to see the results, but (bah!) – it’s still the same.

 

 

TS-2000 resistor mod

A new 47kOhm bodge resistor in place.

What now? Should I try to source the flash IC and change it, or would it be a waste of money? I haven’t decided yet.. There’s another “redneck” solution though, making a mike-selector box. Put in a couple of male 8-pin connectors for microphone and interface so I can switch between them. It’s possible, but I don’t like it! It would also require me to feed the interface from the ACC2 or a speaker jack, absolutely not elegant.. A third possibility would be getting a newer control board off ebay, but might have some issues pairing it with the other boards as it could contain different firmwares and of course calibration data. Will consider everything right now. Might also need a new encoder for the multi function wheel as mine is bouncing a bit.

Will come with a new update soon 🙂

 

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